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Channel: Reign of Louis XVI - 1775 to 1789 | Grand Ladies | gogm
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1779 (or after) Catherine Beauclerk, née Ponsonby from Hon. Aubrey Beauclerk and his Family by Franciszek Smuglevicz (Bonham's)

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Bonham's has these lot notes for the overall portrait, "The present work depicts The Hon. Aubrey Beauclerk (1740-1802), later 5th Duke of St. Albans, and his family including his eldest son Aubrey (1765-1815, later 6th Duke of St. Albans), who joined his parents in Rome in May 1778, and their two eldest daughters, Catherine (d. 1803) and Caroline (d. 1838).

On 4th June 1778, Lady Mary Lowther noted in a letter to Lady Mary Coke that 'Mr Beauclerk, Lady Catherine and Mr Brand were gone together abroad, being so in debt they found it troublesome staying at home'. Their trip abroad may have been arranged to try to escape the rumours of an affair between Lady Catherine and Thomas Brand. The Beauclerks spent almost three years in Rome during which time Smuglevicz painted them twice. One of these portraits is the present work, which depicts the family before the Castel Gandolfo where they rented apartments for the summer of 1779. The other portrait (now in Cheltenham Art Gallery) shows the family in the Roman campagna with an aqueduct in the background.


1779 (or after) Catherine Ponsonby's head, sleeve, and bodice

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I enlarged this as much as I could without getting too much loss of resolution.

This close up shows the intricate work in Catherine's coiffure, headdress, sleeves, and bodice.

Keywords:  1779, Smuglevicz, Catherine Ponsonby, Ponsonby family, Beauclerk family, Duchess, high  straight coiffure, ribbon headdress, high neckline, fichu, bows, elbow length tight sleeves, ruffles, over-bodice, ruching, neck band

1779 (or after) Catherine Ponsonby's apron

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This close up shows the pleating and pocket of Catherine's apron, her over-skirt, and what could be her purse.

Keywords:  1779, Smuglevicz, Catherine Ponsonby, Ponsonby family, Beauclerk family, Duchess, elbow length tight sleeves, ruffles, over-bodice, ruching, apron, pockets, over-skirt, purse

Lady Hester Cholmondeley, née Bellingham (1763-1844), wearing white dress, fichu and shawl with frilled trim, her powdered hair dressed with a white bandeau by Henry Edridge

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Bonham's lot notes have this (the marriage date and coiffure agree), "Lady Hester was also portrayed in two further portrait miniatures, one given to Ozias Humphry that appeared in Christie's Pierpont Morgan Sale of 24-27 June, 1935, lot 349 (illustrated catalogue opp.p.160), which compares very closely to the present lot; and a portrait by William Grimaldi in the National Gallery of Ireland (number 19283) (see. P. Caffrey, Treasures to Hold, Irish and English Miniatures 1650-1850 from the National Gallery of Ireland Collection, 2000, p.80.

Hester Frances Cholmondeley was the youngest daughter of the Hon. Reverend Robert Cholmondeley and his wife, Mary Woffington, sister of the celebrated actress Peg Woffington... They were married in 1746. Hester's grandfather was George 3rd Earl of Cholmondeley K.B., P.C. (1703–1770). In 1783, Hester married Sir William Bellingham, 1st Baronet (c. 1756–1826), who was an Irish-born British politician.

Bellingham served as MP for Reigate in Surrey between 1784 and 1789 before his appointment as Commissioner for the victualling of the Navy. As a Commissioner, he oversaw the provisioning of George Vancouver's expedition along the West Coast of North America. Although he never saw the Pacific Ocean himself, Bellingham Bay (and subsequently Bellingham, Washington) was named by Vancouver in his honour.

1786 Miss Hodgson by John Downman (Bonham's)

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I cannot find out anything about her except she had a bother John who was a Major General.

Image darkened to bring out details.

Miss Hodgson's coiffure is a sculptural work of art crowned with feathers adding a full 30 cm or so of height. She appears to be wearing a fichu and deep vee waistline. She wears a large bow and long tight sleeves ending in cuffs edged with two rows of ruffles.

Keywords:  1786, Downman, British, long high curly coiffure, feathered headdress, fichu, bows, long tight sleeves, cuffs, ruffles, deep-vee waistline, full skirt, over-skirt

Maria Amalia of Saxony (1757-1831), wearing blue dress, sheer fill-in, a medal suspended from a blue and red ribbon pinned to her breast, her hair worn à la conseilleur and dressed with a blue bandeau by ? (Bonham's)

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She made just one other appearance in these albums, as a child with Maria Antonia Walpurgis. Now she's grown up. Her marital prospects were diminished by Maria Theresia's dynastic manouvering. Her Wikipedia article is here.

Maria Amalia of Saxony (1757-1831), wearing blue dress, sheer fill-in, a medal suspended from a blue and red ribbon pinned to her breast, her hair worn à la conseilleur and dressed with a blue bandeau by ? (Bonham's) top

This Maria Amalia wears a 1780s bouffant coiffure adorned with a hair band and a dress with criss-cross bodice and a substantial modesty piece in this miniature.

Keywords:  Wettin family, Zweibrücken family, Princess, Duchess, German, long bouffant coiffure, hair band, square neckline, modesty piece, criss-cross bodice, tight sleeves, order bows

Louisa, Lady Clarges (1760–1809) by Thomas Gainsborough (Victoria Art Gallery - Bath UK)

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From bbc.co.

The relatively relaxed style of dress says British while the big straight coiffure says 1770s in this Gainsborough portrait of Lady Clarges.

Keywords:  1778, Gainsborough, British, high straight coiffure, hair jewelry, square neckline, modesty piece, three quarter length puffed sleeves, waist band, bows, full skirt

SUBALBUM: Duquesa de Osuna

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Her Wikipedia article introduces her this way, "Doña María Josefa Alonso-Pimentel y Téllez-Girón, Duchess of Osuna, Grandee of Spain, suo jure 12th Countess-Duchess of Benavente, Grandee of Spain (26 November 1752 - 5 October 1834) was a Spanish aristocrat, famous for her patronage of artists, writers and scientists."


1780 Comtesse de Bernicourt by Johann-Ernst Heinsius (auctioned by Christie's)

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The Countess is shown wearing a comfortable-looking dress, a contrast to French aristocrats portrayed in formal dress, in this 1780 Heinsius portrait.

Keywords:  1780, Heinsius, long curly coiffure, chemise, square neckline, bows, long accordion sleeves, engageantes, bodice, strap sleeves, arm bands, wrap

ca. 1780-1783 Elizabeth, Baroness Craven, later Margravine of Anspach, by Ozias Humphry (National Portrait Gallery - London UK)

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She was a member of the Berkeley family and, according to her Wikipedia article, "was an author, playwright, traveller, and socialite, perhaps best known for her travelogues..." This is not what many people in the USA think of when you mention the word "Berkeley."

Her Wikipedia article continues:  "Her life was full of scandal: after thirteen years of marriage, six children, and affairs reported on both sides, she and her first husband, William Craven, 6th Baron Craven, (married since 30 May 1767), parted permanently in 1780. Thereafter she lived in France and travelled extensively on the Continent.

For a number of years she was in a relationship with Alexander, Margrave of Brandenburg-Ansbach and Bayreuth. His wife since 1754, Princess Friederike of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, died in Germany on 18 February 1791, and Lady Craven's husband died in Lausanne on 26 September 1791. The couple married in Lisbon on 30 October 1791. They settled in England and while the Margravine was snubbed by ladies mindful of their reputations, as well as by her latest husband's cousin, George III himself, the couple lived a busy and opulent life in Hammersmith, London and Benham Park at Speen in Berkshire.

Duchess of Sutherland by Sir Nathaniel Dance-Holland (auctioned)

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This formidable-looking middle-aged woman is the notorious Duchess of Sutherland whose Wikipedia article is here, who preferred sheep to farmers. She must have been imbued with the "remarkable entrepreneurial spirit" and heard the market's call.

The Whiffenpoof Song ("We are poor little lambs who have lost our way")

1788 Marchioness of Queenston by Richard Cosway (location unknown to gogm)

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I saw this in Wikimedia dated 1788. 1798 or 1808 would be more appropriate for this Empire waisted dress with a neckline fraise. 1798 because the dress has no discernible bodice. But the date at the base of the column to right is 1788. The first appearance of a partlet in these albums is here in 1798 and the first appearance of a fraise is here in 1804.

The Marchioness of Queenston is shown wearing Revolutionary dress and coiffure a year before before the Revolution began in this 1788 Cosway portrait.

Keywords:  1788, Cosway, Marquise, British, curly coiffure, head band, high enclosing neckline, neckline ruff, partlet, square neckline, waist band, Empire low waistline, upper puffed sleeves, arm bands, wrap, theatrical dress

1776 Anne Catherine le Prud'homme de Châtenoy Comtesse de Verdun by Élisabeth Louise Vigée Lebrun (and workshop) (Dorotheum)

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All I can find out about her is that she married in 1777.

Dorotheum's English language note follows, "Anne Catherine Le Preudhomme de Chatenoy married Jean Jacques Marie, Comte de Verdun in 1777, a rich member of the influential circle of the Comte d’Artois, brother of King Louis XVI. In her account book Madame Vigée Lebrun noted several portraits of her friend, painted in 1776, 1779, 1780 and 1782. The later ones are probably autograph replicas of the original painting, executed in 1776 which has as yet to be identified. It is probable that our painting is one of the later versions and was painted in 1780 or 1782. Some unimportant parts of the painting could have been executed by a collaborator in Vigée Lebrun´s studio as was usual practice from 1780 onwards, as the artist was very busy. Some of the most famous works of Vigée Lebrun are autograph replicas, for example, her famous self-portrait in the National Gallery, London, is a replica after the primary version in a Swiss private collection.

1777 Mrs. William Villebois, full-length, in masquerade dress, with a blue gown and a lace-edged satin skirt, holding a diaphanous wrap by Sir Thomas Gainsborough (auctioned by Christie's)

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This is her article from thepeerage:  "Frances Read F, #479435, b. 1750, d. 1801

Frances Read was born in 1750. She married William Villebois on 31 October 1768. She died in 1801.

She was the daughter of Henry Read and Frances Truman. From 31 October 1768, her married name became Villebois.

Children of Frances Read and William Villebois

Jane Maria Villebois b. 1771, d. 1849

John Truman Villebois1 b. 1773, d. 1837

Harriet Villebois b. 1774, d. 6 Oct 182

Henry Villebois+ b. 1777, d. 1847."

Upgrade image posted 1 September 2014 from Christie's Web site.

1780 Emilie De Coutances, la marquise de Bec de Lièvre by Alexander Roslin (auctioned by Bukowskis, Stockholm)

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The Marquise's exquisitely formed coiffure and flower and feather bedecked hat are lovely in this display of 1780 extravagance.

Keywords:  1780, Roslin, Marquise de Bec de Lièvre, high straight coiffure, floral feathered hat, square décolletage, modesty piece, bows, ruffles, buttons, close sleeves


1787 Lady Bate-Dudley by Thomas Gainsborough (Tate Collection - London UK)

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Her husband's Wikipedia article is here.    

A diaphanous veil covers the long curly and elaborate coiffure of Lady Bate-Dudley as she rests in studied casual elegance in this Gainsborough portrait.

Keywords:  1787, Gainsborough, Mary Bate-Dudley, British, long high curly coiffure, veil, vee neckline, fichu, bows, long tight sleeves, ruffles, basque waistline, full skirt, over-skirt, necklace, wrap

1781 Marie Jeanne Puissant by Alexander Roslin (Rijksmuseum - Amsterdam Netherlands)

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From Caroline-Imbert.

The plain satin of Marie Jeanne's dress sets the stage for her elaborate headdress in this 1781 Roslin portrait.

Keywords:  1781, Roslin, Marie Jeanne Puissant, high straight coiffure, floral feathered headdress, scoop neckline, modesty piece, bertha, ruffles, bows, stomacher, elbow length close sleeves

1783 Lady Williams and Child, by Ralph Earl (Metropolitan Museum - New York City, New York USA)

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Lady Williams is casually dressed, very plainly compared to other aristocratic sitters on both sides of the Channel, in this Earl portrait. Her hair is un-powdered and her skirt appears to be unsupported.

Keywords:  1783, British, curly coiffure, veil, fichu, scoop neckline, long tight sleeves, ruffles, full skirt

ca. 1787-1791 Mrs. Bryan Cooke (Frances Puleston, 1765–1818), by George Romney (Metropolitan Museum - New York City, New York USA)

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Her article in thepeerage is here.

Enlarged by half by gogm.

Here is another example of the British casual style with a plain, but double, bertha and a wide feathered hat.

Keywords:  Romney, Frances Puleston, Puleston family, Cooke family, British, curly coiffure, feathered hat, bertha, long tight sleeves, ruffles, waist band, bows, natural waistline, full skirt

1789 Madame d’Aguesseau de Fresnes in her Turkish harem garb, by Elisabeth Vigée Lebrun (National Gallery of Art - Washington, DC USA)

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Upgrade posting from pinterest.com/pin/85568461640439639/.

Hairdos are so gigantic in 1789 that no mere turban can possibly contain them as the gigantic head cover of Mme. d’Aguesseau demonstrates.

Keywords:  1789, Vigée Lebrun, Madame d’Aguesseau, French, bouffant coiffure, hat, scoop neckline, jacket, buttons, long tight sleeves, ruffles, belt, jeweled buckle, natural waistline, full skirt

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