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Channel: Reign of Louis XVI - 1775 to 1789 | Grand Ladies | gogm
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ca. 1780 Lady Georgina Smyth and her son by George Romney (Philip Mould)

January 1, 2012, 6:04 pm
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This portrait is almost all that is left of her. Her article in thepeerage is here.

The reflection streaks in the sky area to the right were suppressed and sometimes removed and other spots throughout the image were removed with Photoshop by gogm.

Lady Smyth's notched sleeves are a throw back, but her large coiffure and wide cap are thoroughly up-to-date.

Keywords:  1780, Romney, Georgina Fitzroy Smyth, Fitzroy family, Smyth family, British, curly coiffure, ribboned cap, trapezoidal neckline, chemise, elbow length notched under-sleeves, over-bodice, bertha, elbow length notched full sleeves, waist band, natural waistline, full skirt, clasps

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1783 Marquise de Laage, née d'Amblimont by Louis Carrogis (Musée Condé - Chantilly France)

January 1, 2012, 10:21 pm
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This should be Marquise Beatrix-Stephanie-Renart de Fuchsamberg d'Amblimont. A brief genealogical chart for her is found here. The de Laage family is apparently Belgian.

Photo - René Gabriel Ojéda; image size increased by half and image sharpened by gogm.

Carrogis' style is about the same, but the dress, probably a sheath, is different from the dresses of his late 1760s sitters. She wears a short riding coat with cape top, its tails, sleeves, and cape decorated with ruffled trim.

Keywords:  1783, Carrogis, Marquise, French, high curly coiffure, headdress, vee neckline, fichu, jacket, ruffles, long close sleeves, cuffs, waist band, panniers, flounces, maxi-length skirt, shoes

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1778 Emilie de Coutances, marquise de Bec de Lièvre by Louise Élisabeth Vigée Lebrun

January 2, 2012, 7:16 pm
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From batguano.

Coiffures have not quite reached the astronomical heights and complexities they would attain in the 1780s.

Keywords:  1778, Vigée-Lebrun, Marquise de Bec de Lièvre, high straight coiffure, floral ribboned headdress, hat, trapezoidal neckline, modesty piece, bows, elbow length full sleeves, cuffs, full skirt

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1776 Wilhelmine Encke, Countess Lichtenau by Anna Dorothea Therbusch (Neues Palais - Potsdam Germany)

January 2, 2012, 7:24 pm
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This cheesecake portrait demonstrates her relationship to King Friedrich Wilhelm II of Prussia. Her German Wikipedia article is here. It calls her "the Prussian Pompadour."

Countess Wilhelmine wears a long sleeved jacket that appears to be trimmed with lace and a feathered hat over a moderately high coiffure in this 1776 Therbusch portrait. Her dress lacks mechanical supports, such as panniers.

Keywords:  1776, Therbusch, Countess, German, mistress, Friedrich Wilhelm II, feathered hat, long straight coiffure, scarf, jacket, long tight sleeves, cuffs, full skirt, flounces, gloves

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1779 Izabela Potocka as Polyhymnia by Pompeo Batoni (Muzeum Pałac w Wilanowie - Warszawa Poland)

January 4, 2012, 1:42 am
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Her given name was Elżbieta, but she is also known as Izabela. Unfortunately, her mother was also Izabela Potocka who married Stanisław Lubomirski (her Subalbum is here). A genealogical sketch of Elżbieta Lubomirska who married Polish patriot Ignacy Potocki, this Izabela Potocka, is here.

From 18thcenturyblog.com.


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1775 Comtesse de Belsunce by Louis Carrogis (Musée Condé - Chantilly France)

January 6, 2012, 7:34 pm
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Photo - René-Gabriel Ojéda; image size increased by half by gogm.

The break in 1770s hairstyles is again seen here. The Countess' hair is un-powdered, but she is still wearing panniers.

Keywords:  1775, Carrogis, Countess, French, high straight coiffure, feathered hat, fichu, revers, elbow length close sleeves, panniers, over-skirt, ruffles, under-skirt, flounces, gloves, purse

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1776 Comtesse de Vauban (wearing a robe à la circassienne) by Louis Carrogis (Musée Condé - Chantilly France)

January 6, 2012, 8:04 pm
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Photo - René-Gabriel Ojéda; image size increased by half by gogm.

Not just coiffures are changing. The Comtesse de Vauban's dress has a massive pouf behind it, something not seen between 1789 when Revolutionary styles emerged and 1869 when bustles appeared. Her coiffure towers 30-50 cm above her forehead. The neck- and waistlines are not visible.

Keywords:  1776, Carrogis, Countess, French, high straight coiffure, floral headdress, cap, bodice, bows, long tight sleeves, cuffs, ruffles, over-skirt, pouf, under-skirt, flounces, maxi-length skirt, shoes, robe à la circassienne

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1784 Comtesse Alexandre de Damas by Louis Carrogis (Musée Condé - Chantilly France)

January 6, 2012, 8:24 pm
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Photo - René-Gabriel Ojéda; image size increased by half by gogm.

Carogis' portraits provide wonderful documentation of changing coiffures. Coiffures spread out, not up, in the 1780s until the Revolution changed everything.

Keywords:  1784, Carrogis, long high frizzy coiffure, floral ribboned hat, floral headdress, full skirt, wrap, ruffles, floral bodice ornament, neck band

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1777-1779 Lady Elizabeth Delmé and her Children by Sir Joshua Reynolds (National Gallery of Art - Washington, DC USA)

January 8, 2012, 10:14 pm
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Her article in thepeerage does not list her children. Peter Delmé died in 1789 and she married Captain Chares Garnier in 1794.

Reynolds' portrait of Lady Delmé from 1777-1779 shows that coiffures were reaching great heights, in this case doubling the height of Lady Delme's head. A blanket or wrap covers her skirt, but the part of the skirt that shows suggests she is wearing a full skirt.

Keywords:  1777, Reynolds, Howard family, Delmé family, high long coiffure, ribbon headdress, scoop neckline, puffed sleeves, arm bands, waist band, natural waistline, wrap

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SUBALBUM: Marquise de Savalette

January 9, 2012, 4:51 pm
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Undated Carogis drawings 1775 and after

January 13, 2012, 2:58 pm
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The persons are, left to right: Maria Johanna Camasse, Marquise du Dreneux, the Marquise de Ducrest, and Monsieur and madame de Bréget and madame de Monthulé.

All are at the Musée Condé, Chantilly France. Photos by René Gabriel Ojéda that were enlarged by half by gogm.

The left Lady wears panniers and a high straight coiffure with some vertical curls and a cap draped over the top, then things change. The Ladies in the right image wear large coiffures covered with caps. The next Lady, Marquise du Dreneux, wears a high coiffure with large curls at the base topped with a towering headdress. She also is not wearing panniers - instead she wears a robe à la circassienne. The next Lady wears a squatter, but equally massive coiffure with the wide straw hat cocked to the side. She wears a robe à la circassienne with a ruched flounce at the bottom. The left Lady in the right image wears a 1780s coiffures that is wide, rather than tall, partially covered by a fairly wide cap while the right hand Lady wears a coiffure comparable to those worn by the Ladies in the preceding pair of images. The Lady to the left wears reduced engageantes that are reduced to cuffs in the other images.

Keywords:  Carrogis, Ojéda, Marquise, French, high straight coiffure, bouffant coiffure, cap, ribboned headdress, hat, floral headdress, ribboned cap, fichu, bows, bertha, ruching, elbow length tight sleeves, elbow length close sleeves, engageantes, lace, cuffs, panniers, over-skirt, under-skirt, flounces, shoes, hosiery, robe à la circassienne

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ca. 1782 Madame Antoine Seguier, nee Vastal by Pierre Adolphe Hall after Alexandre Kucharski (private collection)

January 17, 2012, 11:36 pm
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A good biographical article about the sitter can be found with this image here.

From www.pastellists.com.

This is an excellent depiction of a fichu and the late 1770s-early 1780s tall coiffures that were wider at their summits than at their bases, a mild example of a coiffure à la quinot.

Keywords:  1782, Hall - Pierre, French, long high straight coiffure, jeweled feathered cap, vee neckline, fichu, scoop décolletage, ruffles, bows, close sleeves, tent bodice

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1781 Comtesse de Moreton de Chabrillan by Louise Élisabeth Vigée Lebrun (auctioned by Heritage Auctions)

January 23, 2012, 1:01 am
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ca. 1776 Charlotte Grenville, Sir Watkin Williams-Wynn's second wife and her children by Sir Joshua Reynolds (National Museum of Wales)

January 23, 2012, 1:44 am
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Her article in thepeerage is here. I wonder if her husband was a gambler or in the gambling business.

From iamachild.wordpress.com/tag/joshua-reynolds/.

Is this ever a display of British casual style reclining in a flowing dress with considerable gold trim in this Reynolds portrait.

Keywords:  1776, Reynolds, Charlotte Grenville, Grenville family, Williams Wynn family, British, high coiffure, ribbon headdress, vee neckline, criss-cross bodice, long upper flared sleeves, waist band, full skirt, wrap, fur

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1779 Comtesse du Cluzel by Louise Élisabeth Vigée Lebrun (Musée des Beaux-Arts de Chartres - Chartres France)

January 28, 2012, 1:35 am
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Posted to Le Boudoir de Marie-Antoinette by Majesté on 26 April 2011; one spot in background removed with Photoshop by gogm.

Marie Françoise's coiffure is spreading out instead of up in this 1779 Vigée Lebrun portrait. Her bodice is held together with lightweight lacing.

Keywords:  1779, Vigée Lebrun, Marie Françoise du Cluzel, de Flanders de Brunville family, du Cluzel family, Countess, French, high straight coiffure, floral headdress, scarf, square neckline, chemise, bare shoulder sleeves, laced bodice, strap sleeves

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ca. 1789 Lady, said to be Comtesse du Cluzel by Henri-Pierre Danloux (auctioned by Sotheby's)

January 28, 2012, 1:52 am
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Posted to Le Boudoir de Marie-Antoinette by Majesté on 27 April 2011; background extensively shampooed with Photoshop to remove spots by gogm.

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1779 Madame de Verdun by Élisabeth Louise Vigée Lebrun (location unknown to gogm)

January 28, 2012, 11:26 am
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From batguano.

Verdun is located in northeastern France. The town name derives from Latin for "strong fort." It has been the scene of nemerous battles down the years, most notably the infamous World War I battle.

Anne Catherine wears almost the same dress and straw hat as Madame Élisabeth for her Vigée Lebrun portrait.

Keywords:  1779, Vigée Lebrun, Anne Catherine le Prud'homme, le Prud'homme family, Verdun family, Countess, bouffant coiffure, floral ribbon headdress, fichu, square décolletage, bows, tent bodice, close sleeves, forward-back flared engageantes, arm bands

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1782 Court Lady by Paul Lacroix

January 28, 2012, 12:18 pm
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From www.le-livre.fr.

Logo in upper left and spot on skirt removed with Photoshop and sepia areas removed by gogm.

This generic Lady wears a trilobite robe à la polonaise with one pouf behind and two forward. The cords seen hanging from the bow closest to the viewer are used to pull the poufs up from the ground - there were three such cords.

Keywords:  Lacroix - Paul, high coiffure, floral headdress, high neckline, elbow length flared over-sleeves, long under-sleeves, over-skirt, bows, pouf, under-skirt, maxi-length skirt, shoes

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ca. 1780 Susanna, Lady Cullum by Angelica Kauffman (St Edmundsbury Museums - St Edmundsbury, Suffolk UK)

February 12, 2012, 10:14 pm
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From bbc.co.

An elderly lady Cullum poses covered with only face and arms showing in this Kauffman portrait from around 1780.

Keywords:  1780, Kauffman, Susanna Collum, British, straight coiffure, cap, bows, high enclosing neckline, partlet, square neckline, laced bodice, three quarter length full sleeves, engageantes, wrap, fur, lining

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SUBALBUM: Lavinia Bingham

February 15, 2012, 11:46 pm
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This is her article from thepeerage:  "Lady Lavinia Bingham1 F, #101427, b. 27 July 1762, d. 8 June 1831

Lady Lavinia Bingham was born on 27 July 1762 at Castlebar, County Mayo, Ireland. She married George John Spencer, 2nd Earl Spencer, son of John Spencer, 1st Earl Spencer and Margaret Georgiana Poyntz, on 6 March 1781 at Charles Street, Mayfair, London, England. She died on 8 June 1831 at age 68 at Spencer House, St. James's Place, St. James's, London, England. She was buried at Brington, Northamptonshire, England.

She was the daughter of Charles Bingham, 1st Earl of Lucan and Margaret Smith. As a result of her marriage, Lady Lavinia Bingham was styled as Viscountess Althorp on 6 March 1781. From 6 March 1781, her married name became Spencer. As a result of her marriage, Lady Lavinia Bingham was styled as Countess Spencer on 31 October 1783.

Cockayne writes that "she was 'a woman of great beauty and intelligence, brilliance of conversation and charm of character,' but her sister-in-law, Lady Bessborough, writes from Althorp, 9 Jan 1810, writes from Althorp of 'her cleverness (which term peculiarly suits her in every way) ... coarseness of mind, as well as of expression ... intolerance ... the most extravagant abuse, the most unsparing scrutiny. Nothing escapes: character, understanding, opinions, dress, person, age, infirmity - all fall equally under [her] scalping knife.' She also mentions Lady Spencer's 'excellent understanding ... Political Asperity ... exterminating Virtue and stern Piety.' " Cockayne states, "the accounts of him and his wife in the Farington Diary run thus: 5 July 1794, 'Lord Spencer is considered as being very retired, as to his neighbours, in the country. He has withdrawn all political views of the Town of Northampton, and never interferes in their election ... [He] is much respected. Lady S. loves her ease, and is attached to her amusements;' and: 11 Nov 1816, 'The manner of Lord Spencer is dry; but Lady Spencer speaks upon any subject and with great confidence in Her own opinion ... she is become very large in Her person, and uses a stick while walking.' "

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